Sarawakian Local Delights : Jungle Wood Ears

The jungles of Sarawak give forth lots of wood ears or kulat hitam. These soft fungi do not have any taste, flavour or smell but they are crunchy and healthy. They can be added to pumpkin soup, a stir fry with sweet young corn, paku and midin.

If found fresh and soft in the wild, they give food foragers a great deal of joy.

In recent years researchers have found that jungle wood ears help to reduce high blood pressure and lower uric acid in the blood.

Sarawakian Local Delights : Mushroom and Local Indigenous Vegetables

White mushrooms from the secondary forests of Sibuti

Kulat Sawit. Oil Palm Mushrooms

Photo from my friend's kitchen, Ruaskitchen, Miri.

Before the arrival of oil palms in Sarawak, the lovely oil palm mushrooms were never found in the secondary jungles of the state. These mushrooms actually grow on the stalks of the fresh fruit bunches of oil palms, after they have been processed by the oil mills.

The mushrooms are particularly juicy and sweet. They make good soups, and stir fries.

Another mushroom which is also very tasty is the white mushroom, also found in the secondary jungles of Sarawak. 

Mushrooms are usually cooked with another vegetable like cucumber leaves or paku. This is a very nice dish to present to guests who drop by. It is also a very presentable dish in an eating stall which sells indigenous food in Miri.

Sarawakian Local Delights : Peanut Cracker

As more and more Indonesians come over to work in our oil palm estates, we get more influenced by Indonesian cuisine. Today we often get these peanut crackers from the small stalls operated by the wives of the workers.

Estate workers hold their own market days when they receive their salaries which are usually paid out twice a month.

This is the recipe for this Indonesian peanut crackers.

Makes 30-40 crackers

1. Grind the following
    3 garlic cloves

    2 candlenuts
    5 g coriander seeds
    1/2 tsp cumin seeds
2. Combine (1) and all of the following"
    1/2 tbsp salt
    24 kaffir lime leaves
    250 g rice flour
    300 cc coconut milk
    400 cc water, dilute with 50cc coconut milk
    250 g peanuts, raw
    1/3 tsp lime water (optional)
3. Heat cooking oil over medium heat. When the oil is warm, pour 2 to 3 tablespoons of batter into the warm oil.
4. Drain on paper towel and keep in airtight container.

Sarawakian Local Delights : Tapai wrapped by Rubber Leaves

Tapai or two day old fermented  glutinous rice is made by mixing local yeast with glutinous rice. It is a favourite dessert in the coastal areas of Sarawak and Peninsula Malaysia too. However it is best eaten chilled.

If the fermentation is allowed to go on for another few days, the sweet rice becomes very soft and marshmallow like. Further fermentation would produce alcohol, tuak.

Rubber tree leaves have been used to prepare this tapai since time immemorial. They are soft and very easy to use. They do not tear easily too. Others like the simpor and banana leaves are also the other alternatives. This is a very environmentally friendly way of preparing food.

These two photos are shared by my university mate Noor Ainun YR. Thank you.

Sarawakian Local Delights : Old Hens with Lemon Grass Cooked in Bamboo

The old layer hens are sold in the market for about 15 ringgit each. Most chefs use them to prepare superior chicken stock. But there is a very good dish to make out of one or two of them.

Many  indigenous eateries in towns offer old layer hens cooked in bamboo (with lemon grass , ginger and garlic). It is a very popular dish and the meat becomes very tender when slowly cooked in bamboo.

Perhaps this idea of cooking old layers come from the longhouse culture. Young hens are always kept until they can no longer lay eggs and raise families. Only then they are slaughtered.  The fighting cocks when killed in their fights during Gawai are usually taken home to be eaten.

An Iban man who used to work in the timber camp exclaimed, "Unlike the Chinese we Ibans do not roast or steam our spring chickens. We are very respectful of our domestic animals and let them live out their destiny, lay eggs, raise more chickens and populate the longhouse backyard."

Sarawakian Local Delights: Tumeric

Nonya Cooking Ingredient - Kunyit or Turmeric


The Nonya cooking ingredient Kunyit or Turmeric an essential root in Nonya cooking, its flavour and yellow colouring makes dishes distinctive. Another well-used ingredient belonging to the ginger family that appears in Asian cooking.

For example, "Nasi Kunyit" or yellow coloured and flavoured rice is well known to most people in South-East Asia.

Kunyit or Turmeric, common name for an erect, perennial herb, of the ginger family, native to parts of India and used widely in Indian Cuisine especially in curry.

The familiar form of the Kunyit or Turmeric seasoning is in a powder form, but it can be used chopped or sliced.

Kunyit or Turmeric comes from the root of the turmeric plant, the root resembles its relative Ginger in appearance, it has a pungent taste and a yellowish colour.

Sarawakian Local Delights : Chicken stir fried with Tapioca Leaves

A typical dish in a longhouse is stir fried chicken with tapioca leaves.

Chickens are quite readily available as a source of protein in the longhouse. So when guests turn up a chicken is quickly slaughtered to welcome them.  However the chicken, after having been killed must pass the ring of fire, to scorch the skin to get rid of the small downs. This process also makes the meat more flavourfull. It could also mean that the meat is also sanitized.

The chicken is then cut into small pieces and sauted in a big pan with lots of ginger. When the meat is cooked, a few cups of shredded tapioca leaves are added to the chicken. After simmering for more than 30 minutes, the dish is ready to be served.

Salt,sugar, pepper, chillies and may be even mushrooms can be added to this dish.

Sarawakian Local Delights : River Tortoise cooked with Pineapples

In SArawak, pineappes are commonly found in most farms and backyards of longhouses. the make a ready dish for any meal and the fruits can also be served as a snack on a hot day.



since the fruit is easily found in the backyard it becomes an ready ingredient when an Iban catches a river tortoise, which may weigh from 3 kg to even 8 kg. If a large one is caught, the Iban family can share the delicacy with their neighbours. There is seldom a question of selling such exotic meat to neigbhours in the real communal sense.

This dish of pineapples and river tortoise is easy to make. A pot of water with ginger and some chillies is brought to the boil. After a few minutes of more boiling, the cut pieces of the meat are placed in the pot for simmering. When the cartilage of the river tortoise is soft and breaks easily with a fork, the pineapple slices are added to the pot. Pepper, and salt are then added. Once the soup tastes good and flavoursome, the fire can be switched off and the dish served.

Because river tortoise does not get caught easily, the longhouse people also find it difficult to plan ahead to have the dish served on certain festivals.

But if you are visiting and the Iban family happens to have caught a river tortoise, what a nice welcome dish this can be for you. Enjoy the fellowship.

Sarawakian Local Delights : Nyekak

the Nyekak is the indigenous durians, usually wild ones,which the Ibans value greatly. It is orange in colour and it has "whiskers" on the stalks. Today the nyakak fetches a good price because it is getting rarer due to over logging of the forests in Sarawak.

Its scientific name is Durio Kutejensis and is probably enemic to Borneo Island. The tree is rather small but can grow up to 30 feet tall. Its flowers are very pretty and are red in colour. This durian is pollinated by honey bees, birds and bats.

Some people believe that it has medicinal value. the fruit is rather small and light in weight unlike the green and commercial ones.

Sarawakian Local Delights : Ikan Lajong

2.5 kg. by Cikgu Linggie John, Bawang Assan

The ikan lajong (Bintulu Ibans call it supak) is not easily caught by net or by hook these days. This fish was plentiful in the olden days at the confluence of the Rajang and Igan rivers. Apparently they swam from the upper reaches of the Rajang, from the Kanowit river too, to Sibu. The river banks around Sibu and Igan had nets which caught them as the tide went down. The Foochows used to erect fish nets at the mouth of their made made ditches. When the tides went down, children would be so happy to go and catch the trapped fish in the muddy bed of the ditches. This was how my late father and many of his friends caught Lajong and even tapah.

This is a photo from my former Methodist School, Sibu student, Linggie John, who is an avid fisherman from Bawang Assan Longhouse. He is a dedicated school teacher.

The Lajong is a member of the catfish family and is a white fleshed fish. It is also good for making of fish balls (in Thailand). But as a steamed fish, Foochow style, or boiled with assam, it is a good fish as it has no fishy smell at all. In the past this fish fetched only a few dollars but today it will cost you quite a bundle since its fine flesh is very highly valued by all races in Sarawak. 

Its scientific name is Phalacronotus apogon. It can grow into a huge size of 130 m. and could weigh up to 4 or 5 kg.

It is found in the Mekong, Chao Phraya, West Malaysian rivers, Sarawak, Sumatra and Kalimantan (where it is often reared in cages and then smoked or dried and sold as Ikan Salai). Dried fish from Kalimantan is found in the tamu of Sarawak.

Sarawakian Local Delights : Nibong Palm Shoots

The Nibong Palms are hard to harvest because there are a lot of thorns on the trunks.

The nibong palm wood is very hardy and are very useful building materials for river side homes. Many kampong houses built on the banks of rivers use nibong logs as the legs of the houses. The longer the logs are in the water, the stronger they become.

In many places in Sarawak, nibong trunks are used as posts for boats to tie up.

But once in a while, a young nibong palm tree is harvested for its palm hearts.

The Filipinos like to eat lumpia filled with  shredded nibong palm hearts.

The Ibans in Brunei and Sarawak, make a nice stir fry with shredded nibong hearts.

Sarawakian Local Delights : Nyakak

The nyakak (wild durian as the locals call it) is not pungent like the ordinary durian. Today it garners a higher price because it is getting very rare, having to come from the hilly regions of Sarawak. Farmed nyakak may not taste as good as the original wild ones.

The older trees have become rare as the deforestation proceeds without mercy in Sarawak.

An old uncle used to say, "The company bull dozer cannot tell the difference between a durian tree and a nibong tree. All trees must come down...."

Hawkers who sell the nyskak bemoan the fact that there are very few trees left hence the high price.

The flesh of the nyakak is firmer and it is not as messy to eat. Many consider it as less heaty. The orange colour ranges from pale orange to vivid orange. The fruit is smaller in size than other durians but the skin is very thin. There are more spikes per fruit than other durians. It is lighter to in weight. It also has a "beard" which is special characteristic of this fruit

Huang Xiao Feng wrote, "Durian ukak/nyakak with whiskers at the base of its peduncle."

The nyakak can be deep fried, coated in a batter.

Sarawakian Local Delights : Buah Ma

Buah Ma or Buah Pulasan.

The fruit that can be "opened" by twisting the skin looks like rambutans, a more common fruit in Sarawak.

The pulasan (Nephelium mutabile Blume) is often confused with the rambutan. The Ibans call this fruit Buah Ma (with a k at the end). It is called pulasan in English, Spanish and Malay . In Indonesia it is called kapulasan. It is not known outside South East Asia.

Good variety of pulasan is very favoured and garners a higher price than the rambutan.

Unlike the rambutan, the pulasan tree is not tall. After a few years of growth, it starts bearing fruit when it is about 10 feet tall. It is quite easily grown around the house.

The name pulasan comes from the Malay word pulas meaning twist.

The skin gives a reddish dye.

Sarawakian Local Delights : Steamed Torch Ginger and Salted Fish

this is a special dish for those who love Dayak cuisine. The freshly salted fish when steamed becomes aromatic and the bones of the fish very chewable.

Dayak style salted fish is easy to make. Usually fresh river fish is used, be it big or small. The small river fish is tastier actually. The fish is cleaned and drained. Coarse salt is then mixed with the fish, a bit of squeezing and massaging is good at this stage. The fish will be allowed to remain in a covered basin for a day or so after which the salt will be scrapped off and the fish squeezed dry. The fish is then placed in a bottle or jar. Roasted rice grains are added to the salted fish. In a week the salted fish is ready. It can be deep fried, or steamed, or even shallow fried.

the special aroma of the dish will come from the chopped ginger, chillies, torch ginger flower, stalk of the torch ginger and garlic..

Arrange the chopped salted fish with the aromatics on top of it in a glass bowl, add a bit of water.

Steam over high heat for about half an hour.

this dish is good for the festive season. The pinks and reds of the chillies will make it rather Christmassy.

Sarawakian Local Delights : Emplams

A thick paste/chutney made from cooked emplam with spices, chillies and salt.

These are Sarawak mangoes which are usually eaten when they are still unripe. Once they are too ripe, they are not so tasty. Emplams are a bit like buah kedundong, and are often used in the making of Rojak.

Emplams are mangoes which are found mainly in Sarawak. It is a fruit that won't grow too big. It has a big stone. It is best eaten when it is still unripe. Most of the time it is served as part of ulam or part of rojak. Shredded it can be cooked and prepared as a kind of chutney. It will be really nice eaten as a salad loaded with pounded dried shrimps, chillies and belacan.

Many years ago before the fruit was introduced at 5 Star hotels as part of their kerabu dishes, the emplam was considered poor man's lunch item alongside ikan bilis, salted fish and raw cucumber. Today the price of emplam has gone up and might even be unaffordable by some of the poorerst people in Sarawak!!

Sarawakian Local Delights : Banana hearts and chicken

Banana hearts and chicken - a wonderful dish

When a bunch of bananas is ready to be harvested, the tree is chopped down too as each banana tree bears only one bunch of bananas in its life time. So it is very logical that if the heart of the plant can be eaten, it should be eaten. However, one must realise that it is a good vegetable.

It may be a bit of a mess to cut the harder layers of the stem away. Only the innermost layers are cooked.

You can use a banana leaf or two to layer the top of your working table top to do the cutting of the stem. the sticky part of the stem may stain table cloth, clothes and other textiles.

Once cut, the banana stems must be submerged in water and sprinkled with a bit of salt, or even a bit of lime juice to prevent rapid discolouration.

Most housewives would suggest blanching the stems first. It is adviseable to cut the stems  in half

inch sizes.

Prepare the chicken soup and then add the banana stems. Cook over a fairly strong fire until the stems are soft. It makes a very tasty and sweet dish.

It can also be cooked in a curry with chicken.

Sarawakian Local Delights : Tapioca (Ubi Kayu)

Ubi kayu or tapioca used to be one of the cheapest snacks Sarawakians could have.

Tapioca is easily grown wherever farmers grow their padi in the past. The tapioca would be grown around the padi fields forming some kind of boundary between lots. Land would be put to good use. The leaves could be eaten as vegetables too.

India is now the largest exporter of tapioca leaves and root tapioca which is the main ingredient for making starch and other by products.

There are two kinds of edible tapioca in Sarawak, one which will yield roots and the other just good and delicious leaves for cooking.

Then there are two kinds of root tapioca. The more desired ones are those with yellow roots. The whiter ones are edible and slightly bitter. They become woody more easily.

Whenever Sarawakians see the yellow tapioca, they would not think twice to buy.

The yellow tapioca can be fried, boiled, steamed and cooked in soups, or as part of bubur cha cha.

Sarawakian Local Delights : Beef Bone Soup

We often have the basic spices in our homes. So whenever we like to cook Sarawak style beef bone soup, it is quite easy. Even if we do not have all the spices,and we only have the basic four of  coriander seed, cumin, star anise and cinnamon our soup would taste good and is flavourful. The spices will cover the gamey smell of the beef. That has been the chef's trick since the ancient days of Spice Trade.

One or two potatoes can be added to the soup to give is a smooth feel. Tomatoes will add a sourness. And the garnish of Chinese celery (Kiing Chai) will make the soup extra nice. Deep fried onions would be a MUST.

So take out a pot and fry some ginger, garlic and onions. Add the spices . Add beef and beef bones to the pot. Stir in the cubed potatoes. Add hot water to the pot. Slowly simmer the ingredients until the beef is soft and flavourful. Add tomatoes. Add pepper before serving.

This is a nourishing soup for both young and old. In fact, even for a large gathering, a big pot of beef bone soup and tang hoon/kueh tiaw/mi hoon would be sufficient. That would be a party!!

Sarawakian Local Delights : Haruan or Leh Ngii

1.7 kg. is quite a big fish, now costing  about 45 ringgit at least.

It is interesting how the haruan or leh ngii has always been eaten in the rural areas of Sarawak as part of a meal. No one in the past had actually considered it as a health giving special fish which could help in healing wounds.

Perhaps the Malays have thought of the haruan as a fish with healing properties.

Today many people have come to believe in the fish giving benefits to women after child birth. It is believe that eating the fish would also help reduce pain in wounds.

Many health product companies have in the past few decades produced essence of Haruan, in the same way as Essence of Chicken. The essence in bottles cost quite a bit of money.

The haruan is usually steamed and must be freshly killed for best effects. All haruans are sold live in the wet markets. It can also be fried and salted.

It is nice if cooked in a soup with lots of sour fruits like terong. A clay pot would be a good way of bringing out the best flavours of the haruan. I like it when shallow fried and than braised in soy beans and a sweet sauce.

The fish flesh is white and has no smell.

Yes ago the haruan swam freely in the clear streams and not many people actually looked for it.

Sarawakian Local Delights : Sago Palms

This is a photo by Peter Lee. Look at the sago palms which are cut meticulously, same length.

sago worms

Sago palm, cut and cleaned ready for cooking (further trimming needed to get to the pith)

the Sago Palm is an important palm to the Melanaus and most of the natives of Sarawak. Firstly it gives a suitable habitat for sago worms to grow. Sago worms is a delicacy to the Melanaus and others who love them. Secondly the pith or heart of the palm is a good vegetable and is consumed especially during festive season. Sago palms grow abundantly so it is fairly economical to cut down a few for food. Besides the sago palms grow fairly quickly. Thirdly the sago logs can be sent to the factories where the pith can be scraped or processed and sago flour is made. Sago flour from Sarawak is of high  quality and is exported to the USA, Taiwan and other parts of the world.

It is indeed God's gift to the people of Sarawak.